Whatever Happened to Historic Nassau?

by Larry Smith

"The city is a complex thing. It is a place where people meet, live, shop, and find recreation, entertainment and cultural fulfillment...It is more than the commerce of the time, more than the cleanness of the streets or the number of parking spaces. It is where the community meets to celebrate special occasions. It used to be the market." –Patrick Rahming (Essay on the City)

This article features a selection of buildings in the heart of Nassau that, by any measure, are eyesores that grossly disrespect our heritage and damage our tourism industry.

Some are invaluable historic relics. Others contribute much to the character of the built environment. All are derelict. And most are owned by the government or wealthy individuals with the resources to do something about their condition.

The making of a city involves powerful cultural expressions.

“Some are such strong expressions of community culture that they themselves become attractions,” explains architect Pat Rahming. “Nassau was once such an attraction.

“Within the city, the peculiar architecture, arranged along narrow, shaded streets created a scale, texture and display of craftsmanship that made the experience of Nassau unique.

“Nightclubs, some open to the sky, shared Bahamian music, dance and entertainment. Straw vendors made the craft of the Bahamas available to visitors. By being a city of strong attractions, the city itself was an attraction... But that was yesteryear.”

As those of us over 40 know, Nassau was once a picturesque community with an eclectic mix of activities. It held immense appeal for visitors and acted as a commercial hub and marketplace for residents.

But those days are long gone. Today’s Nassau is a rundown shadow of its former self - dirty, congested and in danger of losing forever its historic and aesthetic heritage.

Key signs of this decay are the derelict buildings scattered throughout the city. Some of these eyesores are among our most interesting structures. They have stories to tell. They represent the wisdom and experience of our ancestors, both black and white.

Elsewhere, the character, identity and value of historic towns have been put to good use via preservation guidelines that enhance growth and commerce. For example, Charleston, South Carolina describes itself as “America’s most beautifully preserved architectural and historic treasure, with a rich, 300-year heritage.”

And Charleston - which has a historic relationship with Nassau - earns billions of dollars every year from heritage tourism.

Architect Jackson Burnside says we have the opportunity to make Nassau’s urban environment one of the top visitor attractions in the region, rather than simply an embarrassment.

To do that, we must “restore pride in our city and a sense of ownership that results from vibrant economic and social activity supported by stable institutional leadership.”

We must also acknowledge the “paramount strategic importance” of historic preservation in the revitalisation of downtown, Burnside says.

Plans are underway at the macroeconomic level to redevelop the city. But this is a massive undertaking that will require years to implement.

In the meantime, there are smaller projects that can be accomplished with less effort and less money.
Restoring the Nassau Eyesores would be a good place to start. But there are obstacles:

1. Irresponsible owners with no civic responsibility.
2. Owners who cannot afford to restore their properties, or who are unable to determine good title.
3. Bureaucratic indifference, confusion and incompetence, as in the failure to repurpose Arawak Cay.
4. Lack of awareness of the available financial incentives for restoration.
5. Inability of government to mandate the restoration of derelict properties or to acquire them.

The Bahamas Antiquities Corporation is working to resolve some of these issues. As a starting point they have published a register of historic buildings based on earlier work by the Bahamas National Trust. This list is being documented by June Maura of the Bahamas Historical Society.

For years there have been no sanctions to promote restoration other than moral suasion and a handful of tax concessions, which rarely spurred action. However, legislation is in the works to fine recalcitrant owners up to $500,000 for failure to comply with a restoration order, and to authorize the seizure of non-compliant properties.

Experts say the owners of historic structures should be given a reasonable time to restore them or they will be acquired. There is no doubt that the national interest is involved. Of course, this all begs the question of what sanctions to apply when the public sector fails to uphold its obligations.

What follows is just a small selection of what is out there, but perhaps this unfortunate record of the Nassau Eyesores will encourage some stakeholders to act.

Sisters of Charity Convent
The property was deeded to the Archbishop of New York in 1887, shortly after he had officiated at the consecration of St Francis Roman Catholic Church. Ten years later it was transferred to the Sisters of Charity of Mt St Vincent on the Hudson for use as a convent. The convent closed a few years ago and the property was acquired by Canadian developer Jeffrey Waterous, with the intention of converting it to a restaurant and art community. Waterous lost interest in the project after the building - on one of the city’s most historic streets - had been gutted. The property is now up for sale.

Princess House
This loyalist residence is in a prime location directly opposite Government House on the corner of George Street & Duke Street. Owned by attorney and retired politician Henry Bostwick, it has remained in a state of suspended animation for years. Architect Robert Douglas, in his 1992 book Island Heritage, noted that: “At writing, urgent repairs are required - buildings of this quality are irreplaceable.” The building’s signature jalousies and verandah - noted in several publications - were removed a couple of years ago due to hurricane damage.

Eastern Parade Sea Plane Terminal
Pan American Airways launched the first passenger air service between Miami and Nassau in 1929 - the planes landed in the harbour and passengers were taken ashore in boats. Two years later a ramp was built so that the sea planes could discharge passengers on land, and the terminal building was opened by the British Governor, Sir Bede Clifford, in 1934. Seven years later Pan Am moved its operations to Oakes Field and the Malcolm’s Park terminal eventually reverted to government control and was subsequently used for various purposes, including a police station. The perfect site for an aviation museum, it has been deteriorating for years.

Cascadilla
This wooded estate home in the heart of downtown Nassau was owned by Legislative Council member Dr William Kirkwood from 1844 until his death in 1889. It was then acquired by Edward George, the son of John S George, who founded the store of the same name. Construction is said to be “typical of the shipbuilder’s architectural flair” as there are no mouldings or cornices. The older part of the house is made of very thick cut limestone block with Abaco pine jalousies, and the third floor is thought to have been a lookout. George planted the gardens with ferns, orchids and other exotics and there was once a stable on the property. The late arch realtor Harold G Christie acquired it in 1953, and as the city grew it was converted to offices for H G Christie & Co, which sold it a dozen years ago to lawyer Raymond Wong. The building has been left to rot since then.

The Corner House
This historic home on the corner of Cumberland and West Hill Streets has been left derelict for years. It is owned by businessman Ralph Woods.

St Agnes Rectory
This traditional Bahamian home on Market Street with typical wrap-around verandahs was built in 1925 to accommodate the rector of St Agnes Anglican Church. It was later renamed the Dean William Granger Memorial Centre and used as a rehab centre for alcoholics and drug addicts. Now fast deteriorating, it is owned by the Anglican Archdiocese headed by Archbishop Drexel Gomez.

Sunning Ridge
Half hidden on West Hill Street, bordering a lane that runs down to Queen Street, this once magnificent split-level mansion is now completely derelict. It occupies a prime piece of real estate in the city and was once owned by lawyer Julian Maynard. After he died, the property was seized by creditors and ended up in the hands of Canadian developer Jeffrey Waterous, who gutted the building at the same time that he began work on the nearby Sisters of Charity convent. It is now up for sale.

Cumberland Street
The grey derelict building on the east side of Cumberland Street was the home of Mae Anderson who lived there for 60-odd years. Her heirs live in Jamaica and Australia and are trying to sell the property, which also includes the pink building to the south. A third adjacent building which burned down is owned by Jim Roberts. The vacant former residence to the north, which once housed the Billabong Pub, is owned by contractor George Mosko.

Arawak Cay Customs warehouses
Arawak Cay is a 95-acre spoil island created from the dredging of the harbour in 1966 to expand the cruise ship port. It was supposed to earn money from tourist facilities to help pay for the new harbour, but remained vacant until 1972 when the Customs Department moved its headquarters to a new cargo terminal there. Critics condemned the “hideous-looking warehouse” on such a valuable piece of real estate as a “national tragedy”. By 1983 the terminal was in such a state of disrepair that Customs officers walked off their jobs. It closed soon after and has been derelict ever since - the first sight of Nassau for hundreds of thousands of cruise visitors.

Kelly building
During the Second World War this historic 19th century building in the centre of Bay Street was the main depot for the Hatchet Bay Plantation, selling chickens, milk and ice cream produced by the farm on Eleuthera. This produce was distributed to the various ‘milk stands’ around the city, only a few of which survive today. The building last operated as a clothing shop called Cotton Ginny, which closed in the early 90s. It has remained vacant ever since - at one point slated for demolition as a public health hazard. The property is owned by John and Betty (nee Kelly) Kenning, who own the adjacent Betty K freight terminal.

Solomon Residence
in the early years of the 20th century, former Speaker and President of the Legislative Council Sir Kenneth Solomon built a fine mansion on historic Dowdeswell Street overlooking the Eastern Parade. The first residence burned down in 1936 and was rebuilt the following year. The house became vacant in the 1980s and was eventually destroyed by fire. Nothing remains except the ruined perimeter wall. The once-beautiful tropical gardens flanked by stately Royal Palms are now a dumping ground, with garbage overflowing onto the street. This property is owned by the Mactaggert family.

Public Market
The last building to stand on this prime spot on the harbourfront housed the Ministry of Tourism headquarters and the straw market. It burned to the ground in September 2001. That building replaced an earlier marketplace which, in 1974, was also destroyed by fire. It was was built in 1901 on the site of an even older market, and contained a slaughterhouse, store rooms, fish, handicraft and produce stalls. The government issued a $23 million contract to rebuild the straw market in February of this year, which is currently under review.

"Learning from our traditions, placing value in the wisdom of our ancestors, using old buildings, or building compatible new structures in context with the historic buildings...Historic Nassau needs a preservation policy, with the necessary teeth to ensure development and restoration that guarantees that the historic legacy of Nassau is valued." –Jackson Burnside, Historic Nassau Study, 1998

Comments

[drew Roberts]

"However, legislation is in the works to fine recalcitrant owners up to $500,000 for failure to comply with a restoration order, and to authorize the seizure of non-compliant properties."

Off the top, I don't like this part of the idea at all. Conditions are set up so that it makes no economic sense for people to restore these properties and then we are going to order them to restore them or face a half million dollar fine?

I think we really need to concentrate on historical tourism here in Nassau, but there has got to be a better way.

For a start, let the government set the example with the buildings that they own that are on the list in this article.

This is a good topic for discussion and action and can make a large difference to this country if done right.

Here is an off the wall idea that just came to me. If we are serious about this...

Rather than fines, the government could lease (long term, low rent) the properties, do the renovations, put the buildings to economic use. Share the profit with the landlord.

all the best,

drew

[larry smith]

Thanks Drew. Your points are well taken - it is not a cut and dried matter at all.

For example, what good is it for the government to confiscate a property, given its own record in this area?

And how can you expect churches, for example, to lay out tons of money fixing up an old building that can't be repurposed easily because of lack of parking or whatever?

The Anglicans spent $200k restoring the Deanery on Cumberland Street seven years ago. It's one of our most historic buildings, but what return can they expect?

It is really a comprehensive problem and I am researching an article on the pros and cons of historic preservation as we speak, so I would welcome any input.

[drew Roberts]

Well, I have had an off the wall idea for a few years or more now.

Move parliment to Freeport. Andros if we need to but Freeport is ready and waiting.

Have the opening and closing here and make it a show. But have the rest happen in Freeport.

Move all non-customer facing government office jobs to Freeport as well. (Have to do this in a decent way. At worst, just have all new hires happen in Freeport.

Push Nassau as the historical tourism center. Push Grand Bahama as the glitz tourism center. Push the out islands as the eco tourism locations. Whatever.

We really need to find a way to encourage people to move of of this island.

If preserving these historical buildings is important to the country, find a way to get them preserved while allowing the owners to keep them if they wish to.

Certainly confiscation or hugh fines seems wrongheaded. Plus, as I say, let the government set the proper example with government sites first.

We do need a sparkling down town though. That would be such a fine thing.

I will ponder this some more.

all the best,

drew

[Francesca]

I understand the reasons why it would make no economic sense to force the owners of these houses to restore them.

However, what is the cost to Nassau of losing this irreplaceable heritage? Once they fall down, they are lost forever and believe me, newer constructions downtown certainly don't match these buildings for beauty and grandeur.

It really does pain me to walk around and see such beautiful buildings in disrepair.

If Nassau could position itself as a historical tourism centre, that could only benefit the tourism industry. Of course then we come back to the whole Downtown redevelopment issue which is all too necessary and we all know that won't happen anytime soon...

[Amy Core]

A return visit to Nassau in July 07 was disappointing since I felt a strong lack of community spirit which you are trying to revive thru the preservation of the past. We were tenants of Lady Solomon in the late Cyril Solomon house from 1959 to 1965 and know that it does take a lot of effort to maintain a property. She had it tented before we moved in but we did weekly inspections for termite dust and injected wood poison regularly as well as keeping the verandas painted. We loved the house. It was built with high ceilings and 17 doors to the outside to catch the breeze.
I was pleased to visit The Retreat but dismayed by the towers of Atlantis..Las Vegas and Disney land combined!!

[Vera Chase]

I read with interest of the many houses abandoned and left in ruins
in Nassau while my Organization
has been looking for a building to house our many Cultural Activities for years. As Writers, if we had access to a building near Town or Arawak Cay, we will renovate and ensure
that it's History is preserved.
Everyone who walks through
this door will be given an oral presentation as well as printed information about the house.

[Vera Poitier -Chase]

In various Countries, particularly
in the US, certain areas are preserved as Historical Districts.

I don't think we have done this on New Providence.

If there is anyone out there who would like to see these old houses restored for future generations to enjoy. kindly contact me.

I am certain that Corporate Bahamas, and Residents would assist.

[Vera Chase]

No matter how long I stay away from this Site, I am drawn back to this page which tells the History of Nassau's Old Houses.

I am a Student of History, in particular early American/Bahamian History.

I can feel the Spirit of these Houses and a time of fun and Merry Making when these homes
were places for Entertainment.

If I was ever given the opportunity and the Funding for one of these Homes, I would re-create Early Bahamian Times and Culture.